Skin1004 Madagascar Centella Azelaic Acid 10 Ampoule (30ml)

• After cleansing and toner, before moisturiser, morning or evening.
• First week, as SKIN1004 direct: a pea-sized amount only on the areas you want to target, every other day.
• Once your skin has adjusted, build up gradually to 2 to 3 drops over the face. SKIN1004 suggest an extra thin layer on areas of particular concern.
• Follow with moisturiser, and in the morning finish with sunscreen.
• If you also use a retinoid, an exfoliating acid or vitamin C, start this on its own first so you can tell how your skin responds. Don't layer it with another azelaic acid serum.
• Patch test first if your skin is sensitive. It can tingle at first; use it less often if that lingers.

Water, Azelaic Acid, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Disodium Phosphate, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Maltodextrin, Azelamide MEA, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Centella Asiatica Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Sodium Hyaluronate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Beta-Glucan, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

Good to know

• Contains azelaic acid 10%: introduce slowly and wear SPF
• No fragrance and no essential oils in the listed ingredients
• Contains neem (Melia azadirachta) and liquorice extracts

Does it contain 10% or 11.5% azelaic acid?

10% azelaic acid. The 11.5% figure is SKIN1004's total for their "3X Azelaic Active Formula": 10% azelaic acid plus 1% potassium azeloyl diglycinate and 0.5% azelamide MEA, two azelaic acid derivatives. It would be misleading to call it an 11.5% azelaic acid serum.

Will it fade post-blemish marks?

It depends on the mark. Flat brown or red marks left after spots are what azelaic acid is used for, and they fade gradually with steady use and daily sunscreen. Indented or raised scars are a change in the skin's structure, and no serum will smooth those away.

Is it suitable for sensitive skin?

It can be, if you introduce it slowly. There is no fragrance and no essential oils in the listed ingredients, it includes centella, panthenol and allantoin, and SKIN1004 report a completed sensitive-skin irritation test. Azelaic acid can still tingle or irritate reactive skin, so patch test first and follow the adjustment week. If your skin is sore or peeling right now, calm it first.

Is it strong enough for acne?

It is a cosmetic 10% serum for the look of blemishes, especially when they come with redness, shine and leftover marks. If your breakouts are persistent, painful or widespread, speak to a pharmacist or GP.

Can I use it with niacinamide, vitamin C or retinoids?

Niacinamide, yes: there is no need to separate them. With vitamin C or a retinoid, it can work in the same routine, but start one product at a time, and if you are new to either, use them at different times of day or on different evenings until you know your skin is comfortable.

Does it exfoliate like an AHA or BHA?

Not in the same way. Azelaic acid is not an exfoliating acid in the way glycolic acid (an AHA) or salicylic acid (a BHA) is, but it is still an active. Think of it as a step to introduce slowly, not something to pile on top of other acids.