Cart
0
By Mari, founder of K Skin Aura · Updated 11 October 2026
The short answer
WHERE DOES AZELAIC ACID GO IN A ROUTINE?
After cleansing, and after toner if you use one, and before moisturiser. In the morning, sunscreen goes last. That is the order Purito give for their own azelaic acid serum.
This guide is about cosmetic azelaic acid serums, the kind you buy off the shelf, such as Korean ones. Prescription azelaic acid is a medicine, and your doctor or pharmacist's instructions for it come first.
Where azelaic acid goes
Purito's directions for their Azelaic Acid 10 + Kojic + Tea Tree Serum are, in order:
- Cleanser
- Toner
- Azelaic acid serum
- Moisturiser
- Sunscreen (morning)
No toner? Go straight from cleanser to the serum. If you do use one, keep it to a gentle, hydrating toner rather than an exfoliating acid toner.
Two details from Purito that general guides miss. Gently shake the bottle three to five times every time you use it, because the serum contains capsules that need dispersing. Then apply evenly and pat it in.
In the evening it is the same order without the sunscreen. If your skin likes it, a calming serum can go between the azelaic acid and your moisturiser, as an optional step.
That answers "where does it go". The better question is whether you need it, and what it will be doing for you.
Give every product a job
Every product in your routine should have a job. Know what it is for before you add the next one.
That is my rule, and I think it is the most useful thing in this guide.
Take a routine many of us recognise: cleanser, toner, vitamin C, moisturiser, SPF. Each one has a job. The cleanser removes the day. The toner adds hydration or preps the skin. The vitamin C is there for brightness. The moisturiser supports the skin barrier. The SPF protects. Nothing in that list is wrong.
So before azelaic acid goes in, name its job. Is it for breakouts, redness, or the marks breakouts leave behind? If you cannot name the job, or another product already does it, that is a reason to wait, not to add a sixth step.
An example from this very serum: it already contains niacinamide. If you add it, you probably do not need a separate niacinamide serum as well. Two products with the same job is how routines get long and skin gets cross.
Do you need to add it at all?
Not everyone does. Azelaic acid is for particular concerns: breakouts, redness and post-breakout marks. If those are not your concerns, or your routine already has a clear plan for them, you can leave it out.
If you decide to add it, keep the rest simple
If azelaic acid has a clear job in your routine, you do not need to rebuild everything around it.
- Already in most routines: a gentle cleanser, a moisturiser and sunscreen every morning. Use the ones you already own if they suit you.
- Optional: a toner, if you already use one and like it. A calming serum, if your skin feels tight or reactive when you start. Neither is required.
Choosing a moisturiser comes down to how your skin feels that week. A richer cream suits skin that feels tight or dry, such as Aestura AtoBarrier365 Cream. A lightweight gel cream suits skin that feels oily or finds rich creams heavy, such as Purito Oat-in Calming Gel Cream. Either way, check the ingredients against what your skin is sensitive to.
Sunscreen: wear daily SPF for your skin's health, and because Purito advise it with this serum. It is not what makes azelaic acid work, and azelaic acid is not generally described as causing sun sensitivity (NHS, DermNet NZ).
How to introduce it
Rule number 1: use as little as you can at first, and see how your skin reacts.
- Test a small area first. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends testing a new product on a quarter-sized spot, such as the inner arm or the crease of the elbow, using your usual amount twice a day for seven to ten days. Purito also say to patch test before first use. If you get redness, itching or swelling, wash it off and stop.
- Start slowly. Begin in the evening, a few nights a week, and build towards daily if your skin stays comfortable. Purito's page does not give a frequency, so this is our cautious approach, not a brand rule.
- Morning and evening is optional. Some people use it twice a day. Move there only once your skin has been comfortable for a while, and drop back if it is not.
- One new thing at a time. This is K Skin Aura's cautious recommendation, not a medical rule: add one new active, then wait until your skin has settled before adding another. Introducing one product at a time makes it easier to spot what might be triggering a reaction, although it cannot prove which ingredient is responsible.
- Skip it on broken or irritated skin, and keep it away from your eyes.
A mild tingle can happen at first. The NHS lists stinging, burning, itching, dryness and redness as usually mild side effects of azelaic acid medicine. If it lingers, use it less often. Stop and get advice if you see severe redness, scaling, itching or burning, or a reaction that does not settle. DermNet NZ notes that azelaic acid can irritate on its own, and that people with very sensitive or eczema-prone skin are more likely to react. So a reaction is not always caused by mixing products.
An optional preference from Mari (not part of Purito's directions): if your skin tends to sting, she prefers to let the toner absorb fully and apply the serum to dry skin rather than damp skin. It is her personal preference, so follow Purito's order above if you would rather.
Example routines
Examples of how the steps fit, not a prescription. Add one thing at a time.
Evening, once your skin is comfortable with it
- Cleanser.
- Toner, optional.
- Shake the serum 3 to 5 times, apply a thin layer and pat in.
- Calming serum, optional.
- Moisturiser.
Morning, only if you have built up to it
- Cleanser.
- Toner, optional.
- Shake the serum 3 to 5 times again, then apply it. (Shake it every time you use it.)
- Moisturiser.
- Sunscreen.
Vitamin C, niacinamide and retinoids
These are not automatically incompatible with azelaic acid, and the Purito serum itself contains niacinamide. Whether a combination works for you depends on the formulas, their strengths, and how your skin is on the day. So introduce them carefully, rather than assuming "never" or "always fine".
Vitamin C. Vitamin C products vary a lot in strength and formula. If yours already suits you, leave it alone and add azelaic acid by itself first. Once your skin has settled, if you want both, one way to keep it simple is vitamin C in the morning and azelaic acid in the evening. If your skin is already dry, stinging or burning, pause the extras before adding anything.
Niacinamide. Because the serum already has it, you rarely need a separate niacinamide product alongside it. Check what you are already using.
Retinoids (retinol, retinal) and exfoliating acids. These can increase the likelihood of irritation when combined in a routine. Do not start them in the same period as azelaic acid. Settle one, then bring the other in on different nights, and ask a pharmacist if you are unsure.
My own approach is stricter: I do not stack actives unless I have tested the combination and my skin likes it. That is a sensible way to protect your skin while you learn what it tolerates.
About the Purito serum
Purito Azelaic Acid 10 + Kojic + Tea Tree Serum (30ml, £18.99) lists 10% azelaic acid, 10% tea tree leaf water, kojic acid (1,000 ppm), tea tree leaf oil (50 ppm), niacinamide, glutathione, adenosine, bisabolol and coptis japonica root extract, among others. The full list is on Purito's product page.
- It contains tea tree leaf oil, an essential oil. Purito describe it as free of synthetic fragrance, which is not the same as fragrance-free. If essential oils irritate your skin, choose something else.
- Purito describe it as suitable for all skin types. We would not put it that broadly. Whether it suits you depends on how your skin handles azelaic acid and tea tree.
- It is a cosmetic serum, not a treatment for rosacea or any other condition.
A note from Mari: I have very sensitive skin myself, and I've used the Purito azelaic acid serum without experiencing irritation. That doesn't mean everyone's skin will react the same way, especially as the formula contains tea tree essential oil. My advice is always to introduce a new active slowly and pay attention to how your skin responds.
Products we sell, not a shopping list
Purito Azelaic Acid 10 + Kojic + Tea Tree Serum
Choose this if azelaic acid has a clear job in your routine and your skin copes with tea tree oil. £18.99.
Aestura AtoBarrier365 Cream
Choose this if your skin feels tight or dry. £28.99.
Purito Oat-in Calming Gel Cream
Choose this if your skin feels oily or rich creams feel heavy. £15.99.
What to expect
Be wary of any promise of fast results. Skin changes gradually, and we can't say how quickly, or whether, this particular serum will make a difference for you. Judge it over several weeks of steady use, not days. Timelines you may see quoted for azelaic acid treatment usually refer to medicines used for acne, often at higher strengths, so don't read them as what to expect from a cosmetic serum.
When to wait or ask first
- Pregnant or breastfeeding: Purito advise asking a doctor before using it.
- Rosacea: prescription azelaic acid is used in rosacea treatment, but a cosmetic serum containing tea tree oil is not a rosacea treatment. If you have rosacea or think you do, ask a pharmacist, GP or dermatologist first.
- Eczema or sensitive skin: skip it during a flare or on broken skin, and take extra care if you know you react to essential oils.
- Acne that is moderate or severe, or that has not improved with products from the pharmacy: the NHS advises seeing a GP, because you may need a prescription treatment.
- Anything severe or persistent: redness, scaling, itching or burning that does not settle, or marks that are changing, deserve advice from a pharmacist or doctor.
The takeaway
You do not need a longer routine just because you have discovered a new ingredient. You need to know what you are adding, what job it will do, and whether your skin benefits from it. If azelaic acid has a clear job in your routine, the Purito serum is one option, with the tea tree caveat above.
Not sure what your routine needs?
Send me what you use now, how often, and what you would most like to change. I will reply personally with a morning and evening plan. You do not have to buy anything.
Send me your routineSkin Advice is a cosmetic routine review. It is not a diagnosis, and I won't tell you to change prescribed treatment.
Mari, K Skin Aura, London
About Mari. Mari is the founder of K Skin Aura, a UK Korean skincare retailer. She reviews cosmetic routines and product choices through K Skin Aura's free Skin Advice service. She is not a dermatologist or clinician.
Sources checked. Purito product page · American Academy of Dermatology: how to test skin care products · DermNet NZ: azelaic acid · NHS: acne treatment
Frequently asked questions
What is the best way to use azelaic acid in my routine?
After cleansing (and toner if you use one) and before moisturiser. Introduce it slowly, a few evenings a week at first.
Do I put moisturiser on top of azelaic acid?
Yes. Moisturiser goes after the serum.
Morning or night?
Either can work. Start with evenings and add mornings only if your skin is comfortable. Wear sunscreen in the morning either way.
What should you never mix with azelaic acid?
There is no single never-list for cosmetic serums. The practical rule is not to start several actives together, and to skip extras when your skin is irritated. See the vitamin C and retinoid section above.
Do you need azelaic acid in your routine?
Not everyone. It is for particular concerns such as breakouts, redness and post-breakout marks. If it has no job in your routine, leave it out.
Is cosmetic azelaic acid the same as prescription?
No. Prescription azelaic acid is a medicine, usually at a higher strength, with instructions from your doctor or pharmacist.
Find our skincare advice useful?
Add K Skin Aura as a preferred source on Google.
